How to do Vintage

Firstly,  I will admit that technically this is before the ‘birth of cool’ period, but the zoot suit is not only a fashion classic but a cultural icon and movement and I couldn’t miss it out of this series!

Zoot Suit and Other Plays Luis Valdez - Poster

The Zoot suit is said to have come from the New York jazz scene in the late 1930’s and very quickly became the uniform of young Black and Mexican Americans. It’s a totally exaggerated style, almost cartoon like with really wide baggy legged trousers, worn high on the waist with tight cuffs at the ankles.

The jackets are long, almost 3/4 length with exaggerated shoulder pads and wide lapels. The finishing touches were the classic wide brim felt hat with a long feather and a watch and chain that hung down to the knee. Spatz were also common and pin stripes were definitely in.

“A killer -driller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatics cell…” Malcom X

Cab Calloway in a typical Zoot Suit

The second world war saw Americans of all colour fighting for a common cause, but on return to the states post war, the racial division was still apparant. Due to the war, the extravagance of such a suit led it to become a symbol of independence but also rebelliousness. It was also viewed as a symbol of racial divide and symbolised to some a lack of patriotism.

The Zoot Suit Riots

In 1943 a group of sailors on leave in Los Angeles clashed with a group of Zoot Suited young Mexicans, this over the following days turned nasty with stabbings and violence as more and more sailors and gangs joined in. Mexicans were hunted out and dragged from cars, bars shops, buses and cinemas and beaten in the street with a ’sadistic frenzy.’

The blame was put entirely onto the Mexicans by the press, while Police were seen to turn a blind eye. Los Angeles banned the Zoot Suit and the racial violence it provoked spread to Chicago, Detroit, San Diego, Philadelphia and New York, with attacks on anyone wearing a Zoot Suit; in particular Phillipinos, Mexicans and African Americans.

Zoot Suit Riots - Los Angeles

First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt commented, “The question goes deeper than just [zoot] suits. It is a racial protest. I have been worried for a long time about the Mexican racial situation. It is a problem with roots going a long way back, and we do not always face these problems as we should.”

I can think of very few fashion styles that have become so representative and symbolic; rebelliousness and independence, youth and music culture, racial identity and discrimination. The Zoot Suit was an iconic fashion statement that opened the door to other fashion/cultural fusions such as Teddy Boys, Rock ‘n’ Roll, Punk,  Ska and even the baggy trousers and chains of skaters and hip-hop fashions today.

At the time, a powerful and brave statement – All hail the Zoot Suit!

Welcome to Richard Lear guest writing on How To Do Vintage, sharing his experience of 2009’s Goodwood Revival!

1940's/50's Glamour at Goodwood Revival 2009 - Pictured by Richard Lear

There is no better way to travel back and experience the 1930’s, 40’s, 50’s and 60’s than to go to the Goodwood Revival meeting. It is a true celebration of the era, with a primary focus on Vintage Cars the highlights include vintage costume and music, making you feel like you have walked through a time machine.

This year was my first experience of the revival meeting and I decided to take along my Dad and 85 year old Grandad, as it seemed like an event for all generations and I was not mistaken.

Although not compulsory, it did seem the done thing to attend in period dress and Vintage Clothing from the 1930′3 and 1940’s, not a baseball cap in sight! We saw people in all kinds of outfits, which I would best describe as seeing from TV programs such as Heart Beat, Dad’s Army or even Happy Days and movies such as Austin Powers and Pearl Harbour, it was all there.

It was a time before computers, multi-point fuel injection, microwaves or social networks. In fact I’m sure mentioning any of those items within the gates of the show would have brought a frown to anyone’s face. All day it felt my Grandad was giving me a guided tour of his time. He knew where he was and he settled back in very comfortably.

It was interesting how our experiences of our days differed. For me it was about experiencing a time I had only heard about, for my Dad it was revisiting childhood memories and for my Grandad it was a visit back to his day.

Vintage Cars at Goodwood Revivial 2009 - Pictured by Richard Lear

My Grandad was really in his element, he used to work at Jaguar for 35 years so had extensive knowledge of how the cars were constructed, often telling me which parts he would have made on the different cars.

One of the nicest experiences of the day started before we even walked thought the gates. Owners of Pre- 1966 cars were invited to park in an area near the front of the entrance, where we could wander round admiring the hundreds of privately owned Vintage Cars.

This was like the warm up before entering the time machine gates. As we walked up to the entrance the atmosphere intensified as a roaring German Messerschmidt 109 WW2 fighter plane fell into an attack dive above our heads.

Wartime Costume at Goodwood Revival 2009 - Pictured by Richard Lear

Is it strange that I was slightly relieved when half a minute later a low flying Spitfire came out of nowhere and started tailing the Messerschmidt performing combat manoeuvres?

Through the gates there was a buzzing market area where traders were offering all kinds of vintage items from clothes, antiques, paintings or even travel luggage.

The bustling crowds were often brought to a standstill by a platoon of marching WW2 solders, rifles in hand or simply Laurel and Hardy passing through in their 1930s car.

Trackside at Goodwood Revival 2009

Further on was the race track where there was never any shortage of action. We set up camp on the verge looking out towards the bottom of the straight.

We watched several races, the highlight being the RAC TT Celebration, where for an hour we watched a 1960 Vintage Ferrari and an E-Type Jaguar fight it out for first place.

Fortunately after a bitter battle and to my Grandad’s delight the Jag won, which I thought was perfect!

1960 Ferrari 250 GT SWB/C

Through the tunnel, the inside of the track was home to more exhibitions; manufacturer garages displaying vintage cars which were so well cared for it seemed they were as good as when sold 50 years ago.

Unfortunately,  the end of the afternoon signalled time machine experience had to come to an end.

I think everyone felt an odd feeling as they came back to their 21^st century cars, straight into the 21^st century traffic around Chichester, knowing it will be another year before the next chance to step back in time again.

If you have never been to the Goodwood Revival Meeting before I would thoroughly recommend you try it at least once.

Provisional dates for the Goodwood Revival 2010 are 17-19 September 2010. But keep an eye on the Goodwood revival website for full details. Thanks Richard – toodle pip!