Firstly, I will admit that technically this is before the ‘birth of cool’ period, but the zoot suit is not only a fashion classic but a cultural icon and movement and I couldn’t miss it out of this series!
Zoot Suit and Other Plays Luis Valdez - Poster
The Zoot suit is said to have come from the New York jazz scene in the late 1930’s and very quickly became the uniform of young Black and Mexican Americans. It’s a totally exaggerated style, almost cartoon like with really wide baggy legged trousers, worn high on the waist with tight cuffs at the ankles.
The jackets are long, almost 3/4 length with exaggerated shoulder pads and wide lapels. The finishing touches were the classic wide brim felt hat with a long feather and a watch and chain that hung down to the knee. Spatz were also common and pin stripes were definitely in.
“A killer -driller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatics cell…” Malcom X
Cab Calloway in a typical Zoot Suit
The second world war saw Americans of all colour fighting for a common cause, but on return to the states post war, the racial division was still apparant. Due to the war, the extravagance of such a suit led it to become a symbol of independence but also rebelliousness. It was also viewed as a symbol of racial divide and symbolised to some a lack of patriotism.
The Zoot Suit Riots
In 1943 a group of sailors on leave in Los Angeles clashed with a group of Zoot Suited young Mexicans, this over the following days turned nasty with stabbings and violence as more and more sailors and gangs joined in. Mexicans were hunted out and dragged from cars, bars shops, buses and cinemas and beaten in the street with a ’sadistic frenzy.’
The blame was put entirely onto the Mexicans by the press, while Police were seen to turn a blind eye. Los Angeles banned the Zoot Suit and the racial violence it provoked spread to Chicago, Detroit, San Diego, Philadelphia and New York, with attacks on anyone wearing a Zoot Suit; in particular Phillipinos, Mexicans and African Americans.
Zoot Suit Riots - Los Angeles
First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt commented, “The question goes deeper than just [zoot] suits. It is a racial protest. I have been worried for a long time about the Mexican racial situation. It is a problem with roots going a long way back, and we do not always face these problems as we should.”
I can think of very few fashion styles that have become so representative and symbolic; rebelliousness and independence, youth and music culture, racial identity and discrimination. The Zoot Suit was an iconic fashion statement that opened the door to other fashion/cultural fusions such as Teddy Boys, Rock ‘n’ Roll, Punk, Ska and even the baggy trousers and chains of skaters and hip-hop fashions today.
At the time, a powerful and brave statement – All hail the Zoot Suit!